Mountaineering in Nepal

On the land of Mt Everest

Mountaineering Information

Nepal is a country gifted with some of the highest peaks in the world, including the top-most peak, Mt. Sagarmatha (Mt. Everest, 8848.86m.). It is hardly surprising that Nepal has been the stage for some of the most outstanding achievements in the world of mountaineering. The diverse topography and the resulting climatic conditions offer the most spectacular trekking routes in the world.

Several attempts to climb the world’s highest mountain, Everest, were made in the 1920s and 30s from the Tibetan side of the Himalayas. When Nepal was opened up to foreigners, a vast array of new challenges presented themselves to adventure climbers. However over the following 30 years, what began as near-free access to the mountains, including Everest and the sacred Machhapuchhare, gradually become restricted to a few named expedition peaks. These mountains required a hefty peak fee and liaison officer in addition to unusually onerous bureaucracy and months of pre-planning.

In 1978, under the control of the newly-formed Nepal Mountaineering Association (NMA), 18 mountains between 5587m and 6654m were opened to foreigners without the restrictions of the expedition peaks. The bureaucracy was streamlined, a permit could be obtained from the NMA with the minimum of fuss after arriving in Nepal and a liaison officer was not required. This list of 18 formed the so-called “trekking Peak” to distinguish them from the major “expedition peaks”.

In 1998 a further 9 peaks were designated as trekking peaks by the Ministry of Tourism, separately from the NMA’s list. Controversially, some of these ‘new’ peaks were simply low hills like Gokyo Ri and Yala which, until then, had been freely climbed and considered to be ‘outside the system. Later on, NMA issued 33 trekking peaks and expedition peaks through the Department of Tourism.


Climbing Permit

The trekking peaks attract a fee, which has to be paid in addition to any fee for the trek approaching the mountain. The fees and the lists of peaks have been under review in recent years and the situation looks as if it will continue to be fluid. If you intend to climb any trekking peaks, check the current lists and fees before departing from home.

All the Expedition peak permit through the Department of Tourism, and trekking perk permit through Nepal Mountaineering Association (NMA).


Climbing Style

Although there are straightforward routes on many of these peaks, they certainly should not be underestimated. Several have no easy way up to them. The routes selected for this volume are generally the easier ones, mostly around Alpine grade PD, with two Ads and a couple of Fs. All require the use of rope, axe, and crampons; and ice screws, snow stakes, and often a small selection of nuts and pegs may be useful. Many of the climbs cross seriously crevassed ground and should not be attempted without a firm grounding in the fundamentals of glacier rope-work and crevasse rescue.

Most of the additional climbing equipment needed for trekking peaks can be hired or purchased in Kathmandu, and often sold back again if necessary.


Grading

Himalayan climbing does not easily fit into normal degrading systems because the major difficulties are often not so much technical as those associated with acclimatization. High altitude and/or large verticals (the difference in height between base camp and the summit).

 

Climbing Rules and Regulations

Permission to climb Nepal’s mountains
Climbing Rules
Definition
Functions and duties of the Sirdar/Guide
Food and tent accommodation
Insurance
Submission of report
Protection of Environment

 

Peak open for Mountaineering

The government of Nepal has divided peak into three categories: Peaks opened for foreign expeditions, Join Nepalese and foreign Expeditions, and Foreign expeditions only when they have been climbed by Nepalese and foreign joint expedition.

S.N

Name 

Height

Height

Location

1Ama Dablam6812m22,349Sagarmatha
2Annapurna I8091m26,545Gandaki
3Annapurna II7937 m26,040Gandaki
4Annapurna III7555 m24,787Gandaki
5Annapurna IV7525 m24,688Gandaki
6Annapurna South7219 m23,684Gandaki
7Api Himal7132 m23,399Mahakali
8Api West7100 m23,294Darchula
9Barun Tse7129 m23,389Kashi
10Baudha6672 m21,890Gankdaki
11Chamlang7319 m24,012Sagarmatha Barun
12Cheo Himal6820 m22,375Gandaki
13Chobuje6685 m21,932Janakpur
14Cholatse6440 m21,129Sagarmatha
15Cho-oyu8201 m26,906Sagarmatha
16Cho polu6711 m22,018Sagarmatha
17Churen7371 m24,183Dhaulagiri
18Dhampus6012 m19,724Dhaulagiri
19Dhaulagiri I8167 m26,795Dhaulagiri
20Dhaulagiri II7751 m25,430Dhaulagari
21Dhaulagiri III7715m25,312Dhaulagiri
22Dhaulagiri IV7661 m25,135Dhaulagiri
23Drangang Ri6801 m22,313Janakpur
24Dhaulagiri V7618 m24,993Dhaulagiri
25Dhaulagiri IV7268 m23,845Dhaulagiri
26Fimkot West6645 m21,801Bajhang
27Fimkot6697 m21,972Bajhang Humla
28Ganesh IV (Pabil)7052 m23,136Bagmati
29Ganesh II7111 m23,330Bagmati
30Ganesh III (Salasungo)7110 m23,327Bagmati
31Ganesh V6986 m22,920Bagmati
32Gangapurna7455 m24,459Bagmati
33Gauri Shanker7134 m23,406Janakpur
34Gimigela Chuli7350 m24,114Mechi
35Gyajikang7038 m23,091Gandaki
36Himachuli E7893 m25,896Gandaki
37Himchuli N.7371 m24,183Gandaki
38Himchuli West7540 m24,738Gandaki
39Himlung Himal7126 m23,379Gandaki
40Hongde6556 m21,509Karnali
41Jagdula Peak5763 m18,907Karnali
42Kumbhakarna (Jannu)7710 m25,295Mechi
43Kangbachen7903m25,928Mechi
44Kagmara5960 m19,554Karnali
45Kande Hiunchuli6627 m21,742Karnali
46Kanchenjunga (Main)8586 m28,169Mechi
47Kanchenjunga8476 m27,808Mechi
48Kanchenjunga(South)8476 m27,808Mechi
49Kang Guru6981 m22,904Gandaki
50Kangtega(Kantega)6779 m22,241Sagarmatha
51Kanjeralwa6612 m21,693Karnali
52Kanijiroba (Main Peak)6838 m22,434Karnali
53Khatang6782 m22,251Janakpur
54Lamjung Himal6918 m22,697Gandaki
55Langsisa Ri6427 m21,086Bagmati
56Langtang Lirung7234 m23,734Bagmati
57Lhotse8516 m27,940Sagarmatha
58Lhotse Shar8400 m27,559Sagarmatha
59Lobuje West6145 m20,161Sagarmatha
60Lemgpa Peak6954 m22,815Mechi
61Makalu I8463 m27,766Koshi
62Makalu II (Kangchugtse)7678 m25,190Koshi
63Manapathi6380 m20,932Dhaulagiri
64Manaslu8163 m26,782Gandaki
65Manaslu North7157 m23,481Gandaki
66Nampa6755 m22,162Mahakali
67Ngojumbakang7743 m25,404Sagarmatha
68Nilgiri Central6940 m22,769Dhaulagiri
69Nilgiri North7061 m23,166Dhaulagiri
70Nilgiri South6839 m22,438Dhaulagiri
71Numbur6957 m22,825Sagarmatha
72Nuptse7855 m25,771Sagarmatha
73Ngadi Chuli7871 m25,823Gandaki
74Nampa South6580 m21,588Darchula/Bajhang
75Patrasi6450 m21,1616450 Karnali
76Pumori7161m23,494Sagarmatha
77Putha Hiunchuli7246 m23,773Dhaulagiri
78Pathivara Chuli7125 m23,376Mechi
79Pasang Lhamuh7351 m24,117Sagarmatha
80Raksha Urai6593 m21,631Bajhang
81Saipal7031 m23,068Mahakali
82Shantishikhar7591 m24,905Sagarmatha/Khumbu
83Shartse7459 m24,472Sagarmatha
84Sisne5849 m19,190Karnali
85Sita Chuchura6611 m21,690Dhaulagiri
86Saipal East6882 m22,579Bajhang
87Surma-Sarovar North6523 m21,401Bajhang
88Sagarmatha8848 m29,029Sagarmatha
89Shey Shikhar6139 m20,141Karnali
90Tawache6501 m21,329Sagarmatha
91Thamserku6623 m21,729Sagarmatha
92Tilicho peak7134 m23,406Gandaki
93Tukuche Peak6920 m22,703Dhaulagir
94Tripura Hiunchuli6563 m21,532Karnali
95Tso Karpo6518 m21,385Dolpa
96Tarke Kang7193 m23,599Gandaki
97Varaha Shikhar (Fang)7647 m25,089Dhaulagiri
98Yalung Kang8505 m27,904Mechi
Join Nepalese and foreign Expeditions
99Bobaye6808 m22,336Mahakali
100Ganesh (Yangra)7429 m24,373Bagmati
101Jethi Bahurani6850 m22,474Mahakali
102Khang Sar Kang7485 m24,557Gandaki
103Hrikuti6364m20,879Dhaulagiri
104Bhemdang Ri6150m20,177Bagmati
105Bhairab Takura6799m22,306Bagmati
106Chamar7187m23,579Gandaki
107Changla6563m21,532Karnali
108Dorje Lhakpa6966m22,854Bagmati
109Ganchenpo6387 m20,955Bagmati
110Gandharava6248 m20,499Gandaki
111Gurja Himal7193 m23,599Dhaulagiri
112Ri Gurkarpa6891 m22,608Bagmati
113Kang Gyachung7952m26,089Sagarmatha
114Gyalzen Peak6151 m20,180Bagmati
115Jongsang Peak7483 m24,551Mechi
116Karyolung6511 m21,362Sagarmatha
117Kirat Chuli(Tent Peak)7365 m24,163Bagmati
118Langtang Ri7205 m23,638Bagmati
119Leonpa Gang6979 m22,897Bagmati
120Nala Kankar6062 m19,888Karnali
121Nepal Peak6910 m22,671Mechi
122Ohmi Kanga6829 m22,405Mechi
123Phurbi Chyachu6631 m21,755Bagmati
124Urknmang6151 m20,180Bagmati
 Nepalese and foreign joint expedition
121Bobaye6808 m22,336Mahakali
122Ganesh (Yangra)7429 m24,373Bagmati
123Jethi Bahurani6850 m22,474Mahakali
124Khang Sar Kang7485 m24,557Gandaki

Mountain Climbing Fee Structure

 

Mountain climbing fees issued by Department of Tourism- Nepal
Mountaineering Royalty for Foreign Climber per Person

S.N

Mountain

Spring

Autumn

Winter

1Everest Normal Route$11,000$5,500$2,750
2Everest Others Route$10,000$5,000$2,500
3Others more than 8000m$1,800$900$450
47501 m. to 7999m$600$300$150
57000 m. to 7500m$500$250$125
66501 m. to 6999m$400$200$100
7Mt. Amadablam (6812 m)$400$400$200
8Less the 6500$250$125$70

Climbing Peak and Permit Fees

 

Nepal Mountaineering Association was established on 1 November 1973. It is the only national alpine club authorized to issue climbing permits for 33 mountain peaks of Nepal. The fees for the trekking peak on the NMA categories as Group “A “and Group “B” permits. The name of peak, elevation, and cost in the following table.

S.N.

Name (Group A)

Height

Spring

Autumn

Winter

Summer

1Mt Cholatse6423mUSD250USD125USD70USD70
2Mt. Kyazo Ri6151mUSD250USD125USD70USD70
3Mt.Phari Lapcha6017mUSD250USD125USD70USD70
4Mt. Nirekha6159mUSD250USD125USD70USD70
5Mt. Langsisa Ri6412mUSD250USD125USD70USD70
6Mt. Ombigaichen6340mUSD250USD125USD70USD70
7Mt. Bokta6114mUSD250USD125USD70USD70
8Mt. Chekigo6121mUSD250USD125USD70USD70
9Mt. Lobuje West6135mUSD250USD125USD70USD70
10Mt. Larkya Peak6416mUSD250USD125USD70USD70
11Mt. ABI6043mUSD250USD125USD70USD70
12Mt. Yubra Himal6048mUSD250USD125USD70USD70

S.N

Name (Group B)

Height

Spring

Autumn

Winter

Summer

1Hiunchuli6434mUSD250USD125USD70USD70
2Singu Chuli6501mUSD400USD 200USD 100USD 100
3Mera Peak6470mUSD250USD125USD70USD70
4Kusum Kangru6360mUSD250USD125USD70USD70
5Kwangde6086mUSD250USD125USD70USD70
6Chulu West6419mUSD250USD125USD70USD70
7Chulu East6584mUSD400USD200USD100USD100
8Imja Tse (Island Peak)6165mUSD250USD125USD70USD70
9Pharchamo6279mUSD250USD125USD70USD70
10Lobuje6090mUSD250USD125USD70USD70
11Ramdung5900mUSD250USD125USD70USD70
12Pisang Peak6091mUSD250USD125USD70USD70
13Khongma Tse5849mUSD250USD125USD70USD70
14Ganja La Chuli5863mUSD250USD125USD70USD70
15Paldor Peak5903mUSD250USD125USD70USD70

Garbage Deposit and Refund Policy

 

Amount to be deposited for Garbage Management, trekking peak garbage issued by Nepal Mountaineering Association (NMA), an expedition peak garbage issued by Department of Tourism.

  • The Mountaineering expedition team shall deposit the following amount as for the garbage management:

(a) For the following mountains of the Khumbu and Annapurna Himalayan range

For the Mount EverestFour thousand U.S. Dollars or equivalent to that in Nepalese rupees.
For the other mountain having a height of above 8001 meters except for Mount EverestThree thousand U.S. Dollar or equivalent to that in Nepalese rupees
For the mountain having the height of 7001  to 8000 meter and Amadablam mountainTwo thousand U.S. Dollar or equivalent to that in Nepalese rupees
For the mountain having the height of 6501 to 7000 meterOne thousand U.S. Dollar or equivalent to that in Nepalese rupees
For the mountain having the height of less than 6500 meterFive hundred U.S. Dollar or equivalent to that in Nepalese rupees

 

(b) For the following mountains of the other Himalayan range other than expressed in clause (a).

For the other mountain having the height of more than  8000 meterThree thousand U.S. Dollars or equivalent to that in Nepalese rupees
For the mountain having theFive hundred U.S. Dollars or equivalent to that in Nepalese rupees.
height of less than  8000 meter

 

  • The trekking peak climbing team shall deposit the following amount as for the garbage management:
    As like expedition peak, trekking peak garbage deposit to acquire climbing permit will be same

For example US$ 500.00. The refund shall be made as per the provisions of NMA

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