Nepal is a country gifted with some of the highest peaks in the world, including the top-most peak, Mt. Sagarmatha (Mt. Everest, 8848.86m.). It is hardly surprising that Nepal has been the stage for some of the most outstanding achievements in the world of mountaineering. The diverse topography and the resulting climatic conditions offer the most spectacular trekking routes in the world.

Several attempts to climb the world’s highest mountain, Everest, were made in the 1920s and 30s from the Tibetan side of the Himalayas. When Nepal was opened up to foreigners, a vast array of new challenges presented themselves to adventure climbers. However over the following 30 years, what began as near-free access to the mountains, including Everest and the sacred Machhapuchhare, gradually become restricted to a few named expedition peaks. These mountains required a hefty peak fee and liaison officer in addition to unusually onerous bureaucracy and months of pre-planning.

In 1978, under the control of the newly-formed Nepal Mountaineering Association (NMA), 18 mountains between 5587m and 6654m were opened to foreigners without the restrictions of the expedition peaks. The bureaucracy was streamlined, a permit could be obtained from the NMA with the minimum of fuss after arriving in Nepal and a liaison officer was not required. This list of 18 formed the so-called “trekking Peak” to distinguish them from the major “expedition peaks”.

In 1998 a further 9 peaks were designated as trekking peaks by the Ministry of Tourism, separately from the NMA’s list. Controversially, some of these ‘new’ peaks were simply low hills like Gokyo Ri and Yala which, until then, had been freely climbed and considered to be ‘outside the system. Later on, NMA issued 33 trekking peaks and expedition peaks through the Department of Tourism.

Climbing Permit

The trekking peaks attract a fee, which has to be paid in addition to any fee for the trek approaching the mountain. The fees and the lists of peaks have been under review in recent years and the situation looks as if it will continue to be fluid. If you intend to climb any trekking peaks, check the current lists and fees before departing from home.

All the Expedition peak permit through the Department of Tourism, and trekking perk permit through Nepal Mountaineering Association (NMA).

Climbing Style

Although there are straightforward routes on many of these peaks, they certainly should not be underestimated. Several have no easy way up to them. The routes selected for this volume are generally the easier ones, mostly around Alpine grade PD, with two Ads and a couple of Fs. All require the use of rope, axe, and crampons; and ice screws, snow stakes, and often a small selection of nuts and pegs may be useful. Many of the climbs cross seriously crevassed ground and should not be attempted without a firm grounding in the fundamentals of glacier rope-work and crevasse rescue.

Most of the additional climbing equipment needed for trekking peaks can be hired or purchased in Kathmandu, and often sold back again if necessary.

Grading

Himalayan climbing does not easily fit into normal degrading systems because the major difficulties are often not so much technical as those associated with acclimatization. High altitude and/or large verticals (the difference in height between base camp and the summit).

Climbing Rules and Regulations

• Permission to climb Nepal’s mountains
• Climbing Rules
• Definition
• Functions and duties of the Sirdar/Guide
• Food and tent accommodation
• Insurance
• Submission of report
• Protection of Environment

Peak open for Mountaineering

The government of Nepal has divided peak into three categories: Peaks opened for foreign expeditions, Join Nepalese and foreign Expeditions, and Foreign expeditions only when they have been climbed by Nepalese and foreign joint expedition.

Mountain Climbing Fee Structure

Mountain climbing fees issued by Department of Tourism- Nepal
Mountaineering Royalty for Foreign Climber per Person

Climbing Peak and Permit Fees

Nepal Mountaineering Association was established on 1 November 1973. It is the only national alpine club authorized to issue climbing permits for 33 mountain peaks of Nepal. The fees for the trekking peak on the NMA categories as Group “A “and Group “B” permits. The name of peak, elevation, and cost in the following table.

Garbage Deposit and Refund Policy

Amount to be deposited for Garbage Management, trekking peak garbage issued by Nepal Mountaineering Association (NMA), an expedition peak garbage issued by Department of Tourism.

• The Mountaineering expedition team shall deposit the following amount as for the garbage management:

(a) For the following mountains of the Khumbu and Annapurna Himalayan range

(b) For the following mountains of the other Himalayan range other than expressed in clause (a).

• The trekking peak climbing team shall deposit the following amount as for the garbage management:
  As like expedition peak, trekking peak garbage deposit to acquire climbing permit will be same

For example US$ 500.00. The refund shall be made as per the provisions of NMA