Mountaineering in Nepal

On the land of Mt Everest

Mountaineering Information

Nepal is a country gifted with some of the highest peaks in the world, including the top-most peak, Mt. Sagarmatha (Mt. Everest, 8848.86m.). It is hardly surprising that Nepal has been the stage for some of the most outstanding achievements in the world of mountaineering. The diverse topography and the resulting climatic conditions offer the most spectacular trekking routes in the world.

Several attempts to climb the world’s highest mountain, Everest, were made in the 1920s and 30s from the Tibetan side of the Himalayas. When Nepal was opened up to foreigners, a vast array of new challenges presented themselves to adventure climbers. However over the following 30 years, what began as near-free access to the mountains, including Everest and the sacred Machhapuchhare, gradually become restricted to a few named expedition peaks. These mountains required a hefty peak fee and liaison officer in addition to unusually onerous bureaucracy and months of pre-planning.

In 1978, under the control of the newly-formed Nepal Mountaineering Association (NMA), 18 mountains between 5587m and 6654m were opened to foreigners without the restrictions of the expedition peaks. The bureaucracy was streamlined, a permit could be obtained from the NMA with the minimum of fuss after arriving in Nepal and a liaison officer was not required. This list of 18 formed the so-called “trekking Peak” to distinguish them from the major “expedition peaks”.

In 1998 a further 9 peaks were designated as trekking peaks by the Ministry of Tourism, separately from the NMA’s list. Controversially, some of these ‘new’ peaks were simply low hills like Gokyo Ri and Yala which, until then, had been freely climbed and considered to be ‘outside the system. Later on, NMA issued 33 trekking peaks and expedition peaks through the Department of Tourism.


Climbing Permit

The trekking peaks attract a fee, which has to be paid in addition to any fee for the trek approaching the mountain. The fees and the lists of peaks have been under review in recent years and the situation looks as if it will continue to be fluid. If you intend to climb any trekking peaks, check the current lists and fees before departing from home.

All the Expedition peak permit through the Department of Tourism, and trekking perk permit through Nepal Mountaineering Association (NMA).


Climbing Style

Although there are straightforward routes on many of these peaks, they certainly should not be underestimated. Several have no easy way up to them. The routes selected for this volume are generally the easier ones, mostly around Alpine grade PD, with two Ads and a couple of Fs. All require the use of rope, axe, and crampons; and ice screws, snow stakes, and often a small selection of nuts and pegs may be useful. Many of the climbs cross seriously crevassed ground and should not be attempted without a firm grounding in the fundamentals of glacier rope-work and crevasse rescue.

Most of the additional climbing equipment needed for trekking peaks can be hired or purchased in Kathmandu, and often sold back again if necessary.


Grading

Himalayan climbing does not easily fit into normal degrading systems because the major difficulties are often not so much technical as those associated with acclimatization. High altitude and/or large verticals (the difference in height between base camp and the summit).

 

Climbing Rules and Regulations

Permission to climb Nepal’s mountains
Climbing Rules
Definition
Functions and duties of the Sirdar/Guide
Food and tent accommodation
Insurance
Submission of report
Protection of Environment

 

Peak open for Mountaineering

The government of Nepal has divided peak into three categories: Peaks opened for foreign expeditions, Join Nepalese and foreign Expeditions, and Foreign expeditions only when they have been climbed by Nepalese and foreign joint expedition.

S.N

Name 

Height

Height

Location

1 Ama Dablam 6812m 22,349 Sagarmatha
2 Annapurna I 8091m 26,545 Gandaki
3 Annapurna II 7937 m 26,040 Gandaki
4 Annapurna III 7555 m 24,787 Gandaki
5 Annapurna IV 7525 m 24,688 Gandaki
6 Annapurna South 7219 m 23,684 Gandaki
7 Api Himal 7132 m 23,399 Mahakali
8 Api West 7100 m 23,294 Darchula
9 Barun Tse 7129 m 23,389 Kashi
10 Baudha 6672 m 21,890 Gankdaki
11 Chamlang 7319 m 24,012 Sagarmatha Barun
12 Cheo Himal 6820 m 22,375 Gandaki
13 Chobuje 6685 m 21,932 Janakpur
14 Cholatse 6440 m 21,129 Sagarmatha
15 Cho-oyu 8201 m 26,906 Sagarmatha
16 Cho polu 6711 m 22,018 Sagarmatha
17 Churen 7371 m 24,183 Dhaulagiri
18 Dhampus 6012 m 19,724 Dhaulagiri
19 Dhaulagiri I 8167 m 26,795 Dhaulagiri
20 Dhaulagiri II 7751 m 25,430 Dhaulagari
21 Dhaulagiri III 7715m 25,312 Dhaulagiri
22 Dhaulagiri IV 7661 m 25,135 Dhaulagiri
23 Drangang Ri 6801 m 22,313 Janakpur
24 Dhaulagiri V 7618 m 24,993 Dhaulagiri
25 Dhaulagiri IV 7268 m 23,845 Dhaulagiri
26 Fimkot West 6645 m 21,801 Bajhang
27 Fimkot 6697 m 21,972 Bajhang Humla
28 Ganesh IV (Pabil) 7052 m 23,136 Bagmati
29 Ganesh II 7111 m 23,330 Bagmati
30 Ganesh III (Salasungo) 7110 m 23,327 Bagmati
31 Ganesh V 6986 m 22,920 Bagmati
32 Gangapurna 7455 m 24,459 Bagmati
33 Gauri Shanker 7134 m 23,406 Janakpur
34 Gimigela Chuli 7350 m 24,114 Mechi
35 Gyajikang 7038 m 23,091 Gandaki
36 Himachuli E 7893 m 25,896 Gandaki
37 Himchuli N. 7371 m 24,183 Gandaki
38 Himchuli West 7540 m 24,738 Gandaki
39 Himlung Himal 7126 m 23,379 Gandaki
40 Hongde 6556 m 21,509 Karnali
41 Jagdula Peak 5763 m 18,907 Karnali
42 Kumbhakarna (Jannu) 7710 m 25,295 Mechi
43 Kangbachen 7903m 25,928 Mechi
44 Kagmara 5960 m 19,554 Karnali
45 Kande Hiunchuli 6627 m 21,742 Karnali
46 Kanchenjunga (Main) 8586 m 28,169 Mechi
47 Kanchenjunga 8476 m 27,808 Mechi
48 Kanchenjunga(South) 8476 m 27,808 Mechi
49 Kang Guru 6981 m 22,904 Gandaki
50 Kangtega(Kantega) 6779 m 22,241 Sagarmatha
51 Kanjeralwa 6612 m 21,693 Karnali
52 Kanijiroba (Main Peak) 6838 m 22,434 Karnali
53 Khatang 6782 m 22,251 Janakpur
54 Lamjung Himal 6918 m 22,697 Gandaki
55 Langsisa Ri 6427 m 21,086 Bagmati
56 Langtang Lirung 7234 m 23,734 Bagmati
57 Lhotse 8516 m 27,940 Sagarmatha
58 Lhotse Shar 8400 m 27,559 Sagarmatha
59 Lobuje West 6145 m 20,161 Sagarmatha
60 Lemgpa Peak 6954 m 22,815 Mechi
61 Makalu I 8463 m 27,766 Koshi
62 Makalu II (Kangchugtse) 7678 m 25,190 Koshi
63 Manapathi 6380 m 20,932 Dhaulagiri
64 Manaslu 8163 m 26,782 Gandaki
65 Manaslu North 7157 m 23,481 Gandaki
66 Nampa 6755 m 22,162 Mahakali
67 Ngojumbakang 7743 m 25,404 Sagarmatha
68 Nilgiri Central 6940 m 22,769 Dhaulagiri
69 Nilgiri North 7061 m 23,166 Dhaulagiri
70 Nilgiri South 6839 m 22,438 Dhaulagiri
71 Numbur 6957 m 22,825 Sagarmatha
72 Nuptse 7855 m 25,771 Sagarmatha
73 Ngadi Chuli 7871 m 25,823 Gandaki
74 Nampa South 6580 m 21,588 Darchula/Bajhang
75 Patrasi 6450 m 21,161 6450 Karnali
76 Pumori 7161m 23,494 Sagarmatha
77 Putha Hiunchuli 7246 m 23,773 Dhaulagiri
78 Pathivara Chuli 7125 m 23,376 Mechi
79 Pasang Lhamuh 7351 m 24,117 Sagarmatha
80 Raksha Urai 6593 m 21,631 Bajhang
81 Saipal 7031 m 23,068 Mahakali
82 Shantishikhar 7591 m 24,905 Sagarmatha/Khumbu
83 Shartse 7459 m 24,472 Sagarmatha
84 Sisne 5849 m 19,190 Karnali
85 Sita Chuchura 6611 m 21,690 Dhaulagiri
86 Saipal East 6882 m 22,579 Bajhang
87 Surma-Sarovar North 6523 m 21,401 Bajhang
88 Sagarmatha 8848 m 29,029 Sagarmatha
89 Shey Shikhar 6139 m 20,141 Karnali
90 Tawache 6501 m 21,329 Sagarmatha
91 Thamserku 6623 m 21,729 Sagarmatha
92 Tilicho peak 7134 m 23,406 Gandaki
93 Tukuche Peak 6920 m 22,703 Dhaulagir
94 Tripura Hiunchuli 6563 m 21,532 Karnali
95 Tso Karpo 6518 m 21,385 Dolpa
96 Tarke Kang 7193 m 23,599 Gandaki
97 Varaha Shikhar (Fang) 7647 m 25,089 Dhaulagiri
98 Yalung Kang 8505 m 27,904 Mechi
Join Nepalese and foreign Expeditions
99 Bobaye 6808 m 22,336 Mahakali
100 Ganesh (Yangra) 7429 m 24,373 Bagmati
101 Jethi Bahurani 6850 m 22,474 Mahakali
102 Khang Sar Kang 7485 m 24,557 Gandaki
103 Hrikuti 6364m 20,879 Dhaulagiri
104 Bhemdang Ri 6150m 20,177 Bagmati
105 Bhairab Takura 6799m 22,306 Bagmati
106 Chamar 7187m 23,579 Gandaki
107 Changla 6563m 21,532 Karnali
108 Dorje Lhakpa 6966m 22,854 Bagmati
109 Ganchenpo 6387 m 20,955 Bagmati
110 Gandharava 6248 m 20,499 Gandaki
111 Gurja Himal 7193 m 23,599 Dhaulagiri
112 Ri Gurkarpa 6891 m 22,608 Bagmati
113 Kang Gyachung 7952m 26,089 Sagarmatha
114 Gyalzen Peak 6151 m 20,180 Bagmati
115 Jongsang Peak 7483 m 24,551 Mechi
116 Karyolung 6511 m 21,362 Sagarmatha
117 Kirat Chuli(Tent Peak) 7365 m 24,163 Bagmati
118 Langtang Ri 7205 m 23,638 Bagmati
119 Leonpa Gang 6979 m 22,897 Bagmati
120 Nala Kankar 6062 m 19,888 Karnali
121 Nepal Peak 6910 m 22,671 Mechi
122 Ohmi Kanga 6829 m 22,405 Mechi
123 Phurbi Chyachu 6631 m 21,755 Bagmati
124 Urknmang 6151 m 20,180 Bagmati
 Nepalese and foreign joint expedition
121 Bobaye 6808 m 22,336 Mahakali
122 Ganesh (Yangra) 7429 m 24,373 Bagmati
123 Jethi Bahurani 6850 m 22,474 Mahakali
124 Khang Sar Kang 7485 m 24,557 Gandaki

Mountain Climbing Fee Structure

 

Mountain climbing fees issued by Department of Tourism- Nepal
Mountaineering Royalty for Foreign Climber per Person

S.N

Mountain

Spring

Autumn

Winter

1 Everest Normal Route $11,000 $5,500 $2,750
2 Everest Others Route $10,000 $5,000 $2,500
3 Others more than 8000m $1,800 $900 $450
4 7501 m. to 7999m $600 $300 $150
5 7000 m. to 7500m $500 $250 $125
6 6501 m. to 6999m $400 $200 $100
7 Mt. Amadablam (6812 m) $400 $400 $200
8 Less the 6500 $250 $125 $70

Climbing Peak and Permit Fees

 

Nepal Mountaineering Association was established on 1 November 1973. It is the only national alpine club authorized to issue climbing permits for 33 mountain peaks of Nepal. The fees for the trekking peak on the NMA categories as Group “A “and Group “B” permits. The name of peak, elevation, and cost in the following table.

S.N.

Name (Group A)

Height

Spring

Autumn

Winter

Summer

1 Mt Cholatse 6423m USD250 USD125 USD70 USD70
2 Mt. Kyazo Ri 6151m USD250 USD125 USD70 USD70
3 Mt.Phari Lapcha 6017m USD250 USD125 USD70 USD70
4 Mt. Nirekha 6159m USD250 USD125 USD70 USD70
5 Mt. Langsisa Ri 6412m USD250 USD125 USD70 USD70
6 Mt. Ombigaichen 6340m USD250 USD125 USD70 USD70
7 Mt. Bokta 6114m USD250 USD125 USD70 USD70
8 Mt. Chekigo 6121m USD250 USD125 USD70 USD70
9 Mt. Lobuje West 6135m USD250 USD125 USD70 USD70
10 Mt. Larkya Peak 6416m USD250 USD125 USD70 USD70
11 Mt. ABI 6043m USD250 USD125 USD70 USD70
12 Mt. Yubra Himal 6048m USD250 USD125 USD70 USD70

S.N

Name (Group B)

Height

Spring

Autumn

Winter

Summer

1 Hiunchuli 6434m USD250 USD125 USD70 USD70
2 Singu Chuli 6501m USD400 USD 200 USD 100 USD 100
3 Mera Peak 6470m USD250 USD125 USD70 USD70
4 Kusum Kangru 6360m USD250 USD125 USD70 USD70
5 Kwangde 6086m USD250 USD125 USD70 USD70
6 Chulu West 6419m USD250 USD125 USD70 USD70
7 Chulu East 6584m USD400 USD200 USD100 USD100
8 Imja Tse (Island Peak) 6165m USD250 USD125 USD70 USD70
9 Pharchamo 6279m USD250 USD125 USD70 USD70
10 Lobuje 6090m USD250 USD125 USD70 USD70
11 Ramdung 5900m USD250 USD125 USD70 USD70
12 Pisang Peak 6091m USD250 USD125 USD70 USD70
13 Khongma Tse 5849m USD250 USD125 USD70 USD70
14 Ganja La Chuli 5863m USD250 USD125 USD70 USD70
15 Paldor Peak 5903m USD250 USD125 USD70 USD70

Garbage Deposit and Refund Policy

 

Amount to be deposited for Garbage Management, trekking peak garbage issued by Nepal Mountaineering Association (NMA), an expedition peak garbage issued by Department of Tourism.

  • The Mountaineering expedition team shall deposit the following amount as for the garbage management:

(a) For the following mountains of the Khumbu and Annapurna Himalayan range

For the Mount Everest Four thousand U.S. Dollars or equivalent to that in Nepalese rupees.
For the other mountain having a height of above 8001 meters except for Mount Everest Three thousand U.S. Dollar or equivalent to that in Nepalese rupees
For the mountain having the height of 7001  to 8000 meter and Amadablam mountain Two thousand U.S. Dollar or equivalent to that in Nepalese rupees
For the mountain having the height of 6501 to 7000 meter One thousand U.S. Dollar or equivalent to that in Nepalese rupees
For the mountain having the height of less than 6500 meter Five hundred U.S. Dollar or equivalent to that in Nepalese rupees

 

(b) For the following mountains of the other Himalayan range other than expressed in clause (a).

For the other mountain having the height of more than  8000 meter Three thousand U.S. Dollars or equivalent to that in Nepalese rupees
For the mountain having the Five hundred U.S. Dollars or equivalent to that in Nepalese rupees.
height of less than  8000 meter

 

  • The trekking peak climbing team shall deposit the following amount as for the garbage management:
    As like expedition peak, trekking peak garbage deposit to acquire climbing permit will be same

For example US$ 500.00. The refund shall be made as per the provisions of NMA

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